The El Trovatore: Beacon of Light and Hope

The magnificent 100-foot neon tower at sunrise.

Route 66 travelers who chase the sunset into the city of Kingman, Arizona, compare the experience with a long, slow airplane descent. The lights of distant motels and restaurants beckon travelers for miles, and those lights grew a little bit brighter this year thanks to the efforts of Sam and Monica Frisher.

This spring the Frishers accomplished a feat that I never dreamed possible: restoring the battered El Trovatore Motel and its spectacular 100-foot neon tower. Built in 1937 as a service station on a stony bluff, the tourist court was added in 1939 and offered travelers stunning views of the Hualapai Mountains to the east. Its first owner was John F. Miller, who famously built the first hotel in Las Vegas, Nevada, the Sal Sagev (Las Vegas spelled backwards). When Route 66 was bypassed, the El Trovatore fell into disrepair and eventually became apartments.

On a warm May night I arrived via Andy Devine Avenue and immediately savored the motor court's pre-World War II atmosphere. Sam and Monica greeted me warmly and I unloaded my things into the Marilyn Monroe room before returning to the office to snap pictures of the Frishers and their dog Taco. Sam agreed to keep the neon tower lit until morning so I could view its glorious colors in the pre-dawn light (click photos to enlarge).

The Marilyn Monroe room: simple and comfy.

For 20 years I'd passed this old jewel of the desert and dreamed that a savior would one day restore her midcentury glory. Thanks to the Frishers, the dream is coming true. The soaring red and green neon tower was re-lit in March and 20 rooms have already been refurbished in old-school Hollywood themes. Eventually the entire motel will be restored; with so much open space, it's an ideal overnight stop for tour buses from Vegas and Laughlin. Sam is also planning an observation deck that will treat guests to a panorama of the Hualapai mountains and the parade of BNSF trains in the cut below. To book a room, visit their website at http://ElTrovatoreMotel.com.

Sam and Monica Frisher in the motel office, May 2012

 The Frishers have already overcome tremendous odds by saving the El Trovatore and these images are a tribute to their vision. These are the road warriors who keep the spirit of Route 66 alive, preserving the Mother Road as a lifeline for those seeking the true character of America, far from generic chains and interstates. Spend an evening with Sam and Monica at the El Trovatore and you'll quickly spot the qualities that make Route 66 special: individuality, community, and a bold vision of what lies around the next bend.

A guest's view of the neon tower. The LED lighting is temporary.

Only on Route 66 can you get a welcome like this!

The Frishers' dog Taco provides some evening entertainment.

Route 66 Beacons in the News

The classic 66 Motel in Needles: will she beckon travelers again?

Two landmark Route 66 motels are in the news: the El Trovatore in Kingman, Arizona, which has not only reopened but restored its neon tower, and the 66 Motel in Needles, California, which is the subject of an intense fundraising effort to save its classic sign.

Relighting the 66 Motel: There's a reason why most tourists drive to Laughlin instead of Needles, but the Route 66 town will always be my first choice. Between 100 BNSF trains a day, the nearby Colorado River, a Harvey House hotel and a parade of vintage motels and diners, Needles has plenty to interest the Route 66 traveler. Now preservationist Ed Klein is raising money to restore the classic 66 Motel sign in Needles, Calif. I last photographed the sign in 2004 while working on my Route 66 Railway book (back then I was still shooting film!). For as much as it's been immortalized in books, documentaries and artwork, this is the first serious restoration effort I can recall. Ed's goal is to raise $3,600 by 11:59 p.m. PT on Wednesday, April 18; about 35 hours remain as of this posting. Click HERE to see a 90-second video on the restoration and donate online. (Donors get cool Route 66 perks!)

Can you imagine this lit up at dusk?

A Southwest Beacon Returns: I've lost count of how many times I passed the hillside El Trovatore motel and prayed that a savior would one day restore its midcentury glory. Thanks to Monica and Sam Frisher, that prayer has finally been answered. The soaring red and green neon tower was relit in early April and 20 rooms have been refurbished in classic Hollywood themes. A ton of work remains, but the Frishers have already overcome huge odds by saving this Kingman gem. I can't wait to visit and capture that marvelous tower at dusk . . . hopefully there's a way to frame the motel with a passing train in the cut below. For more info, visit their website at http://eltrovatoremotel.com/. You can read a great article on the motel restoration by clicking HERE. Also, author Jim Hinckley has photos of the restored tower -- click HERE to see them.

A big "thank you" to these preservation heroes who are keeping the Route 66 mystique alive!

Travels with UP 844: 2011 Edition

It's hard to imagine a better birthday present than photographing a 1944-built 4-8-4 on her old stomping grounds, thundering up Cajon Pass and speeding across my beloved Mojave Desert. But there I was on November 19, watching in awe as Union Pacific's magnificent No. 844 engulfed the signal towers at Silverwood station with a cloud of steam and rounded the sweeping curve into Cajon Summit.

The California run was part of a southwest tour to commemorate the 100th statehood anniversaries of New Mexico and Arizona. UP 844 arrived via the former SP Sunset Route into West Colton (that's Bloomington to non-railfans). After a day on display, she climbed Cajon Pass on 11/19 and stayed the night in the desert town of Yermo. From there she traveled over historic UP rails to Las Vegas and points east, with a memorable stop at the restored Kelso depot in the Mojave National Preserve.

Slowing near Lenwood, Cal., for the arrival in Barstow . . . a magnificent machine.

It's always tough to pick my favorite pictures from a road trip, so I finally took a cue from friend Dave Styffe and built a web gallery in Adobe Lightroom. Follow the link below to see a gallery of 50 images of steam, railfans, and an extended visit to Kelso (the town may still be recovering):

http://66rails.com/844weekend/photos/

Thanks to my family who let me loose for a birthday road trip, and to my cousins Damon and Jeane who let me stay at their place for a few nights. And special thanks to Union Pacific Railroad for once again showing unmatched class and style by sending its goodwill ambassador across the Southwest.

Some Giants fan wanted his picture with UP 844 at Yermo.

Shameless Holiday Book Plug

Gillian Ferris Kohl of KNAU-FM and I pose for a post-interview photo at the Flagstaff Amtrak station in September. To hear the NPR radio interview online, see the link below. (Ken Rattenne photo)

The holidays are upon us and it's time for a shameless plug. The Route 66 Railway book is slowly approaching the end of its first printing -- I can't believe it's been over a year since the release!

As with any small publisher, distribution has been a chief obstacle. Most sales have come with little help from the big chains (we're looking at you, Barnes & Noble! At least Borders carries the book in a few stores). A national distributor has expressed interest in selling R66R, but unfortunately it's been a slow process working out the details between them and LARHF, the book's publisher.

Needless to say, the past 13 months have given me a real education about the publishing industry and the trials of getting noticed without a major publisher. However, the response to R66R has been extraordinary and I greatly appreciate everyone's support.

So, if you know someone who needs the perfect holiday book (hint, hint, wink wink), send them to http://www.66rails.com/, which was updated today with new retailers in California, Arizona, and online. It's only a partial list, of course. Signed copies are also available -- email me at elrondlawrence(a)surfbest.net for details. Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah.

ON THE RADIO: In September, NPR affiliate KNAU-FM in Flagstaff did an interview about Route 66 Railway at the ex-Santa Fe passenger depot. The 4-minute radio interview can be heard at the 66rails site, but here's a direct link just in case: http://tinyurl.com/lm2kd9. (Be sure to read the introduction before playing). Thanks to reporter Gillian Ferris Kohl for a fun afternoon and to KNAU radio for their support! Thanks also to friend Ken Rattenne for filming the unedited interview on his cool HD camera.

PHOTO-OP: While at the annual "Route 66 Days" event in Flagstaff, Ken snapped this portrait of yours truly with lovely "Miss Route 66ers" Hillary Ekstrom (left) and Darian Burns. If only we could add thought balloons . . . you'd hear something like:

Me: "It's good to be an author."
Them: "What did he write about? Trains??"

Happy Birthday, Route 66

It’s been a very good day.

But first things first: Happy birthday, Route 66! Today is the 82nd anniversary of the Mother Road’s commissioning, which took place on November 11, 1926. To duly celebrate the occasion, I pulled out my Old Smoky’s 66 mug (purchased in Williams, Arizona, a favorite Mother Road town) for the first cup of joe.

We’ve had a good run these past five days. On Friday, one of my greatest evenings ever took place when I gave an author’s talk and book signing at the National Steinbeck Center in Salinas. As part of the city’s “First Fridays Art Walk,” the Steinbeck was kind enough to host a “premiere reception” for Route 66 Railway. Attendance was much bigger than expected – nearly 100 people showed up through the evening! After speaking about the book, its messages and how it came to be (sprinkled with a few stories, including the infamous “reservation tale”), the crowd kept things going with another 30 minutes of questions. The Steinbeck’s supply sold out well before the talk was done, and we all had a grand time sharing memories of the Mother Road and its railway companion.

El does his best George Plimpton . . . hey, the crowd is still awake. (Kathryn Lawrence photos)

Today, with the Steinbeck rush still palpable, today’s agenda included a meeting at our “neighborhood” Borders, 20-something miles away in Sand City, near Monterey. Unfortunately, while Salinas is John Steinbeck's boyhood home, we have only a mall-encrusted B. Dalton to serve as the town’s chief bookseller. (Our other literary refuge is the Steinbeck Center bookstore, of course.)

At Borders I met with buyer Gail Larson and showed her a copy of R66R. Happily, she loved the book and is placing an order for 10 copies. We checked out the “travel narrative” section, where she plans to display the books (showcasing the “local author” angle, of course). It’s an important breakthrough into the mainstream bookseller market, and hopefully the first of many major locations. In an act of divine providence, Laura was off work for Veterans’ Day, and got to share in the success (after all, she did write a mean neon sidebar).

If that wasn’t enough, today Tim Lincecum—our favorite flame-throwing pitcher for the Giants and the salvation of a tough 2008 season—won the Cy Young Award!

Finally, just when I thought the day couldn’t get better, TrekMovie and Entertainment Weekly debuted the first image of the redesigned U.S.S. Enterprise for next year’s Star Trek movie (coming to theaters May 2009). What. A. Beauty. Gotta catch the trailer this weekend with Bond.

Every once in a while life fires on all cylinders, and a perfect day needs to be savored because we don’t know when the next will arrive.

Today was one of those.

They're Here

I'm happy to say that Route 66 Railway has arrived.

Ten advance copies reached Los Angeles on October 2, and LARHF overnighted a copy to Lawrence Manor, arriving Oct. 4. The big shipment arrived at the Port of LA last weekend, not a moment too soon. This Friday, we'll drive down to the LARHF offices to make a major pick-up. On Sunday, we'll have the first signing party in Redlands, debuting the book to family, friends and members of the community. LARHF has updated their website and orders are now being taken at the online store, HERE.

It's hard to describe the feelings of the last few weeks . . . "surreal" is a commonly heard word these days. What matters most, of course, is that Tien Wah Press did a fantastic job. The books look beautiful, as good as I'd hoped. So far, our lone copy has racked up some serious "show-off" mileage!

For those who live in or near Central California, you're invited to a signing reception on Friday evening, November 7 at the National Steinbeck Center in Oldtown Salinas. I couldn't think of a better setting for a book with a chapter titled "The Ghost of Tom Joad." See http://www.66rails.com/ for details.

Oh, and to those who have read this at the 66rails blog . . . sorry for the double post, but it's big news! :-)

A sample page spread, from the opening of the New Mexico chapter.

Cover Me

As regular visitors to the 66rails website already know, the Route 66 Railway book has a cover:

It's a screen grab from a PDF, but you get the idea. About 40 pages are done -- roughly one-fourth of the book, but things are moving at a quick pace. I'm heading down to southern California this weekend to meet with the designer and publisher . . . tomorrow I'll visit what remains of the Cajon Pass tunnels before BNSF demolishes them in early March. If you're heading to Winterail on March 8, be sure to stop by the LARHF table, where we'll have sample page spreads to show. Or register HERE for news and updates at the book's website.

A New Year, a New Blog

For the last few months, 2008 seemed like nothing more than a hazy object in the rear view mirror -- then suddenly it overtook the Lawrence family with a vengeance. For various reasons we've had to stay home more than usual, and a bout of stir-craziness finally pushed me to launch this blog idea. So here I am, writing the first post while one of Central California's biggest rainstorms in years pounds outside. Hopefully the power won't go out before I finish!

Yes, a new blog. The idea has been simmering in my mind for many months, but most of 2007 was devoted to completing my first coffee table book, Route 66 Railway. I've been keeping a blog at the book's official site, 66rails.com, and that will continue as the book moves through design and production to a late spring/early summer release.

But I've been eager for a broader canvas, so it's time to take the plunge. New blogs by friends Dave Styffe and Martin Burwash spurred me to action, as did the journal of photographer and storm-chaser Blair Kooistra.

Photography is at the heart of this journal, but my goal is to cover much more ground, and have some fun too. Trains, movies, music, baseball and roadtrips are all fair game; occasionally I'll post the latest happenings with the Lawrences for our family and friends who we can't see as often as we'd like. It's also a place where I can unleash some observations about life, faith and culture. I guess that's a long way of saying that you'll find plenty of pictures, but anything goes. Feel free to drop in anytime.